2016 Gen2 Volt

Homelink install on 2016 Gen 2 Chevy Volt

Teksavy’s Homelink installation instructions
(rev 1.0 – 11/16/15)

This guide will show you how to install a homelink 5 transmitter into your 2016 Volt. Note that my vehicle is an LTZ model with all options. I’ll attempt to provide alternate wiring options for non LTZ trim cars that do not have the autodimming mirror.

Items required:

  • Homelink 5 transmitter with grey trim
    I got a brandmotion unit (model 2000-4103) from Amazon.
    Note that Brandmotion has stopped marketing this unit, so stock will eventually be hard to find under the brandmotion name. However the unit is also available at Mito Corp at a higher price. (model 60-HMLKV5GRAY)
  • Wiretaps
    The brandmotion kit comes with Posi-Taps, but if your kit doesn’t have them, you can use scotch-loks or 3M T-Taps for 22 gauge wire.
    I personally would advise against cutting factory wiring, so a non-destructive wiretap method is suggested.
  • Cloth tape
    Electrical tape will work too, but the clotch tape will help keep noise down

Tools needed:

  • Dremel with cutoff wheel
  • Pliers
  • T10 torx tool
  • Drill

Nice to have:

  • Digital Multi Meter
  • Test wires with aligator clips
  • paperclip
  • Plastic trim removal tool


  1. Pull down the overhead console
    There are four clips that hold the console to the roof. Start by using a plastic trim removal tool (your fingers work too) to pull down the front of the console (the area where are mic holes are) first, tilt the front down, then pull down the rear (the end closest to the front windshield). The rear of the console has black fingers that you’ll need to make sure clear the headliner when you pull it down. Not a big deal, but be mindful of them- especially when you reinstall.


  • Disconnect harnesses and bring console to workbench
    You’ll need to disconnect the console electronics module (black box) and microphone



  • Position plastic homelink button template on console
    Make sure the template (that comes with the kit) is centered top and bottom as well as left to right. Make sure the angle of the bezel matches the angle of the character line of the console. (The homelink activity LED should be closest to the mic holes.) Use tape to make sure it doesn’t move.



  • Remove electronics module from the plastic console holder
    You’ll need to remove two torx screws (T10 I think) and unsnap some plastic retainers


  • Drill four holes in the console at the corners of the bezel markings
    These will be used to help make the cut-off wheel cuts clean and straight.
  • “Connect the holes” with a cut-off wheel
    Using your dremel, cut the remainder of the template out between the holes you just drilled

  • Remove support “webbing” from the backside of the console
    The support “webbing” on the back of the console will need to be removed in order to finish your cutting as well as provide enough room for the homelink module. I found that it was easiest to do so by making relief cuts at the intersection of webbing and then using a set of pliers to “twist” sections of the webbing away from the backside of the console.
  • Test fit homelink buttons
    Check to make sure your cutout is sized correctly. (My hole was too small initally, so I had to enlarge it manually using a grinder attachment.) You want to make sure the “fingers” of the button panel aren’t cramped against the console or else they will not line up correctly when installing the homelink module. (Ask me how I know.)

  • Notch out clearance for wire harness
    You will need to cut a support web slightly to allow for clearance for the homelink power harness. (Don’t go overboard with your cuts here- you’ll need as much of the support web as possible since you cut out a lot already.)
  • Install foam gaskets, wire harness and homelink module
    Cut the supplied homelink power harness to about 1 foot in length. Connect the three-pin power harness to the homelink module, then install the foam gaskets. Three foam gaskets come with the kit. You’ll need to install one in the front (between the button bezel and the console) and the remaining two on the back (between the console and the homelink module itself.) Note, you may be tempted to note install the foam gasket on the front and stack all three on the back. Don’t do it. You need a foam gasket in the front to keep the illumination light from leaking out between the homelink button bezel and the overhead console plastic. Since the console has a slight bevel to it, it is impossible to avoid a gap here. Use the foam gasket on the front. It doesn’t look bad.Snap the homelink module to the button bezel and make sure the unit is positioned correctly in the console.

  • Reassemble the overhead console and locate wiring harness at the car
    Put the black electronics module back into the console and return to the Volt.You’ll need to make electrical connections at the wire harness in the headliner. You should see a wiring harness similar to the one below. (Note this harness is from an LTZ with a video camera for the safety packages.)
  • Open harness and make electrical connections
    Depending on if you have an LTZ or lower level trim will determine the electrical connections you need to make. I was unable to find a switched ignition power source on the main wiring connector going to the black electronics box. However, there is one leading to the autodimming rear view mirror and we’ll use that wire to power the homelink module since it is more secure that way.If you don’t have an LTZ trim car, you’ll need to source your power from a constant +12V source located in the main harness (less secure and lose the backlighting function.) or find another switched ignition source in the main fuse box. (Not covered here.)

    Wiring connections:

    LTZ Trim (with autodimming mirror):

    1. Switched Ignition = Purple w/ Green stripe
    2. Ground = Black

    Non LTZ Trim (no autodimming mirror):

    1. Constant +12V = Red w/ Green stripe
    2. Ground = Black

    Note: The white wire

    Note: Use a multimeter and paperclip to verify the above wire connections. While they work on my 9/15 build date Gen 2 Volt, GM is notorious for making wiring changes during production, so better safe than sorry.

    Using a razor, very carefully slice open the wiring harness in the overhead console like this:

    And make your wiring connections using your wiretap connectors using this guide:

    1. Red and white wire from the homelink harness [LTZ trim]= Switched +12V -or-
    2. Red wire only [non LTZ trim] = Constant +12V
    3. black wire from homelink harness = ground

    Note: For the homelink wiring harness, the red wire is power, the white wire is illumination and the black wire is ground. Do not use the white wire if you have a non LTZ trim car and are connecting to a constant 12V power source. (I couldn’t find a reliable illumination circuit in the main harness.)

  • Program and test your new homelink module
  • Retape factory harness
    Using cloth adhesive tape (preferred) or electrical tape, retape the factory harness that you previously opened making sure you isolate your wiretaps from each other to keep noise down.
  • Reinstall console
    Installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure you insert the back of the console first (closest to the windshield) and make sure the black tabs are fully engaged above the headliner first before reinstalling.

If you have any questions or suggestions, please let me know and I’ll update these instructions.

Hope this helps,


11 replies »

  1. Thanks for posting this, I used this guide to install this in my car last night.. It works great!

    In the premier/LTZ, why didn’t you wire the buttons to the constant 12v power and the lights to the switched ignition?

    • I wired the unit to switched ignition for security purposes. If someone broke into the car, I didn’t want them to be able to open my garage door and steal more stuff. All newer cars with factory installed homelink are wired to the ignition.

      • Yes and no. There was no specific wire that I could find that provided an illumination signal. But it doesn’t really matter because I connected the illumination input and the +12V supply line on the homelink module to the +12V switched ignition line obtained from the rear view mirror (autodimming) wire harness on my Premier trim Volt. That way when the car is running the illumination is on, but you won’t see it until it’s dark. Has been working great in my vehicle. Hope this helps!

  2. Great post! I just did this with a 2017 (09/2016 build date) Premier. Wire colors were still the same: purple/green & black. However, there was also a very dark grey wire in my harness (pretending to be a 2nd black wire) which required a bright flashlight to distinguish. I too had to enlarge the template hole considerably for the lock tabs to fit. Thanks for the write-up.

    • My friend just got a chevy bolt and it looks like it would fit, but I didn’t get a chance to remove the overhead console. I think the critical fit is the width between the lights. If you measure yours between the ridged section, I can measure mine to give you an idea if it will fit.

    • I don’t see why it wouldn’t. I’m not aware of any changes to the 2017 that would prohibit doing so.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *